FAT WAVE SWALLOWED ME, DIDN’T DIE

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Anyone out there who surfs? Damn, I never needed you in my life as bad as this morning. The water infinitely rocked!

Like liquid avalanche, I imagine this a treat for surfing beginners: not as life-threatening as the ones from Asgard, but massive enough to encourage mortal terror. I have seen this sea at its calmest and facing it now with waves taller than me is sensational. Just the sound of it is incredible! (I have a video but I can’t seem to upload it.)

I wish I can say I swam the colossal tide but I understand swimming and standing at waist-deep while getting repeatedly hammered on all fronts are two different things. At one point, a really fat wave swallowed me entirely I had to get out of the water to well, not die. Did I mention I tackled this angry sea alone? Totally unsafe but incredibly exciting.

The strong undercurrent that comes one-two with the waves made my legs give time to time, too. Uncool. My left shin remains peppered with bruises from the last muay thai sparring and it hurts like a motherfucker every time it collides against the ocean floor.

Still, all tremendous fun, watching the fluid tip of the Alps charge at you. Okay, given, it is quite possibly trying to kill me as well, but I lived so no hard feelings.

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13 thoughts on “FAT WAVE SWALLOWED ME, DIDN’T DIE

    1. that or i am just getting more creative in my subconscious attempts to kill myself. over the summer i did cliff diving – totally awesome! idk how to surf either. we can take that course at the same time next summer. i did a shit load of things this last one. my avatar photo, i am sitting next to a 60 m drop waterfall and pretending it doesn’t scare the living fuck out of me!

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  1. First of all, gah! I’m seeing two Micah’s! I’m going to be so confused lol! Also, yeah those waves oof gotta be careful, Back in Chile where I grew up if you went too far you’d get picked up by the riptide and oof that goes for miles :O

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      1. I can’t surf either πŸ™‚ As a kid I used to wade toward the rocks to pick out fresh clams and sea urchins, as well as the occasional abalone to take back to the picnic at the beach, Iquique was a LOT more different back in the day πŸ˜€

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