Typical. Plaza Burgos in Vigan, Ilocos Sur mirrors every other old town square in The Philippines. But the street food stalls lining its one side fanned my anemic interest into excitement.

It is like mining for gold. The treasure is inconspicuous. I wandered in and saw nothing. All the signs advertise empanada but the display cases are empty and the cauldrons cold. What the hell?  

Then the magic unfolds. They make the freaking empanada in front of you, just as you order. One lady pinches a mother dough and rolls it to an almost see-through thickness.

Another fills it with vegetables, glorious Vigan longganisa, and a freshly cracked egg before sealing.
Finally, the cauldron awakens to a rolling boil and the empanadas take a bath. The entire operation is both a symphony and machine.
The result is the most beautiful empanada I have eaten in my life. From a street food vendor! Its crispness fascinates me. The sound of a bone snapping from a skiing accident. 

All the empanadas I had before have a cakey, pastry dough, but this one is so light and crispy it is hard to believe it was deep fried in so much oil America might invade it.

But inside, the vegetables are as fresh as they were before sealing. And the egg! Runny and creamy, dripping all over my mouth and fingers.

I have to stop talking now. I need to eat ten more of these. Goodbye.

19 thoughts on “GOLD IN PLAZA BURGOS

  1. They sound so amazing…I feel my mouth watering. My mom had a friend from the Dominican Republic and she would make homemade empanadas for us sometimes when we’d visit. Those were the best I’ve ever tasted.


  2. Have you tried Fariñas in Manila? I haven’t been to Ilocos, but for me they have one of the best here in Manila. Not cakey at all.

    Btw… I LOVE YOUR WORDS!! They suck me in all the time 🙂


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